Get the most out of Vietnam's biggest city by choosing a
great base: from Graham Greene's old haunt to a boutique bolthole with views
over the Saigon river.
Ma Maison
A pocket of France in a remote corner of Ho Chi
Minh City, Ma Maison is a welcoming place to stay, run by a
French-speaking Vietnamese family.
The tall, grey-hued guesthouse towers
over an alley scattered with
banh mi stalls, tailors, food
kiosks, and locals crowded around TVs. Behind the guesthouse door,
there's a sense of being transported away from the city, with Provençal
furniture, farmhouse tables, vases of blooming flowers, croissants for
breakfast, and a soothing, quiet calm. Rooms in muted pastel tones are
cosy with super-comfortable beds; the bathrooms, with rain showers, are
perfumed by cinnamon sticks, lemongrass and mother of pearl shell. Ma
Maison is quite a hike from the centre of town but don't let that be a
deterrent. Just a few minutes' walk from Ma Maison, and recommended by
its staff, is a local
bó ba lot restaurant, where the sight of a
foreigner is still a rare thing. Feast on a fill of beef wrapped in
betel leaf, a stack of rice paper, a huge pile of herbs, noodles and
peanuts, and all for just £1. Ma Maison's filling breakfast
pho is also worth the wait.
•
656/52 Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, +84 8 3846 0263, mamaison.vn, doubles from £52 B&B
Thao Dien Village
An alluring tropical retreat, Thao Dien Village is enveloped by
frangipani trees, and is a 15-minute drive from downtown Saigon. Saigon
is a busy, noisy and congested city but this inviting hotel offers
peace, a swimming pool, spa and a Vietnamese restaurant all facing the
Saigon river in District 2. Superior rooms are all monochrome sleek with
chalk-white walls, grey velvet headboards, crisp white sheets and black
lamps dangling with droplets of shells by French designer Valerie
Gregori McKenzie, founder of boutique store Song. Begin the day with a
breakfast of eggs and strong Vietnamese coffee, seated on a terrace
overlooking the river, and end it at the lemongrass-perfumed spa with a
relaxing herbal, hot stone, mud or chocolate treatment.
• 189-197, 197/1 Nguyen Van Huong Street,
+84 8 3744 6457, thaodienvillage.com, doubles from £103 B&B
Cinnamon Hotel
The charming Cinnamon offers all the style and comfort of a more
expensive Saigon hotel at half the price. It is a short walk from
central Bến Thành Market in District 1, its manicured Asian interiors
feature dark wooden floors and furniture, desks, coatstands, colourfully
tiled bathrooms with tubs and showers, and lamps encased in fishing
baskets. You may want to avoid street-facing rooms for the noise,
although heavy wooden doors and window shutters muffle sounds.
Breakfasts of pho, or banana pancakes laced with Mekong Delta honey,
taken in the small breakfast room in the lobby, are delicious. As well
as breakfast, one cocktail or mocktail, and one foot massage is included
in the stay.
•
74 Le Thi Rieng Street,
+84 8 3926 0130, cinnamonhotel.net, doubles from £40 B&B
The Alcove
There's nothing else quite like it in Ho Chi Minh City. French
colonial-style tiling in floral swirls of black, and taupe in the
boutique-chic lobby supports impressive floor-to-ceiling library
bookcases stacked with an eclectic mix of books. The Alcove is closer to
the airport than the city, and you'll have to factor in travelling
times to downtown on busy weekend nights, but it's quiet and the beds
are supremely comfortable, so you may want to indulge in a lie-in, thus
missing the 9.30am breakfast cut off. But when you do, wander upstairs
to the industrial-chic Roadhouse bar and restaurant, a breakfast of
eggs, toast, jams, fruits, fresh coffee and the tastiest yoghurt in
Saigon awaits. Fresh coffee and tea served to your door is a thoughtful
touch after a full day's sightseeing.
•
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh Street, +84 8 6256 9966, alcovehotel.com.vn, doubles from £54 B&B
Little Saigon Boutique Hotel
Hitched to the bottom end of a long alley in a very central downtown
location, this tiny hotel offers creature comforts and a central city
experience. Outside its front door locals sell
banh mi
(Vietnamese baguettes), eat, chat and drink coffee in the popular
cul-de-sac. A stone's throw from city hall and other central sights, the
lantern-decorated hotel, run by welcoming Vietnamese staff, offers
super-soft pillows, silk bathrobes, pouffes and tables for taking
coffee, and balconies overlooking the higgledy-piggledy French colonial
and glassy, modern city skyline.
•
36 Bis/2 Le Loi Boulevard, +84 8 3521 8464, littlesaigon.com.vn, doubles from £18 B&B
Hotel Sanouva
This slick Ho Chi Minh city hotel, just behind popular Bến Thành
Market, oozes confidence in its smart, grownup rooms. Think
brushed-cotton chairs, plump pillows, firm mattresses and long desks,
all in a palette of moleskin and white. Ly Tu Truong Street is packed
with
hotels
all looking much of a muchness. This is the standout on this popular
District 1 stretch. It's also close to one of the city's best cafes, the
boho
I.D. Café, with its
bare brickwork, 1960's furniture and tasty milkshakes. If you stay more
than three nights at the Sanouva, a complimentary transfer to the
airport is included.
•
177 Ly Tu Trong Street, +84 8 3827 5275, sanouvahotel.com, doubles from £43 B&B
Saigon River Boutique Hotel
Ho Chi Minh's hotel scene lacks innovation but this new
Vietnamese-Australian venture is brilliantly located for sights, eating,
drinking and shopping, and has been attractively re-fashioned from a
1980s narrow building with a bright-white sculptural facade depicting a
multi-branched tree. Rooms are mostly creatively decorated – red, stone
and lemon-yellow pouffes, sleek silver-and-white wallpaper, chic chairs,
and contemporary photography framed on the walls. Bathrooms feature
wonderful hot tub showers, and standard rooms, which do not have windows
– not an uncommon feature in the city's hotels – have been enhanced by
mirrored walls. Although a couple of blocks from Saigon river, guests
can watch the boats from the top-floor terrace.
•
58 Mac Thi Buoi Street, +84 8 3822 8558, saigonriverhotel.com, doubles from £21 B&B
Ruby River Hotel
The Ruby River, with its upbeat contemporary feel, sits in an ideal
location for shopping and the arts. The District 1 hotel is close to the
famous Le Cong Kieu aka "antique street", and the Fine Arts Museum, and
a short
xe ôm (motorcycle taxi)
ride to Bến Thành
Market and the backpacker zone of Pham Ngu Lao. As well as their prime
location, superior rooms are quiet and modestly decorated in chocolate
browns and white. Silver dandelions, or roses in Charles Rennie
Macintosh-style, climb the walls; sharp bathrooms are compact with
powerful rain showers. Ruby deluxe rooms are a better bet as they
feature windows overlooking the street, and the bathrooms come with hot
tubs.
•
59-61 Nguyen Thai Binh Street, +84 8 3914 3636, rubyriverhotel.com.vn, doubles from £35 B&B
Hotel Catina
Graham Greene knew this was a good spot; he took rooms in the 1950s
in the smart, snappy white building that is now the modern Hotel Catina.
It's on Dong Khoi (the old Rue Catinat under French rule), the city's
main downtown shopping street. Once you pass the lobby – a glitzy,
glassy jewellery shop – the upstairs rooms are quiet, feature discreetly
positioned TVs, and have alcoves with desks and coffee-making
facilities. Graham Greene was all for people-watching vantage points so
he would have approved of the breakfast room with its tall windows
overlooking Dong Khoi. The Catina is ideal for the shopaholic, the
barfly, and the 21st-century flaneur.
•
109 Dong Khoi, +84 8 3829 6296, hotelcatina.com.vn, doubles from £68 B&B
The Town House
Tucked at the end of a quiet Saigon
hem (alley), and with
helpful young Vietnamese staff, this new addition to the Ho Chi Minh
hotel scene is great value. The Town House combines its
small-hotel-meets-hip-hostel ambience with bold, attractive interiors.
Architects Huy Than and Le Ha An have fashioned the cul-de-sac building
into an inviting place to stay with twin, double, family and dormitory
rooms, using French blue interiors, pretty stencilling, bamboo towel
ladders and old French colonial tiles. The lobby leads to the breakfast
area, decorated with tropical greenery, and illuminated by orange and
blue Chinese lanterns, and a mini kitchen where guests can make their
own packed lunches. A magazine rack, computers and Wi-Fi, plus a shower
room for guests who have already checked out, complete the winning
formula.
•
50E Bùi Thị Xuân, +84 8 3925 0210, townhousesaigon.com (website under construction), doubles from £20, dorms from £5.50 B&B
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